Sunday, July 26, 2009

Last-Minute Post #2 - Paris

Ah, Paris. Where do I begin?
I actually specifically booked the flight to Paris, unlike most of my other trips, because I decided it would be a real shame to come to Europe and not go to Paris, honestly.
I was fortunate in that, because I was able to check into my hostel about an hour earlier than I expected, I got to go on the New Europe free walking tour (paid only in tips) on 4pm on the day I arrived (Friday), which was the last tour of the day. The tour is about 3 1/2 hours (it's Paris, what do you expect?), so it provides a pretty good overview of the city and a basic run-down on the majority of the major sights. (This is the same company whose tour I went on in Hamburg; they are great)
I say this was very fortunate because, not only did I get a basic overview of the city before diving in on my own the next day, but also got an excellent tip: our guide tipped us off to the fact that, that particular evening from 6-10, people under age 26 got into the Louvre FOR FREE. So immediately after the tour ended at 7:30 I hustled back over to the Louvre and spent about 2 hours looking at some very famous works of art (including the Mona Lisa, Venus of Milo, Nike, and the Code of Hammurabi). And to think, if I hadn't been able to check in early, I would have missed out on this entirely!
Well, after wearing myself out the day before walking around, I decided to get up on Saturday and go--what else?--walk around some more! There was another (start-up) company doing a free tour, but this one was of Montmatre, the artistic district of Paris where Van Gogh, Picasso, etc. lived, and which was actually quite close to where I was staying. It used to be a village outside Paris but was eventually incorporated into the city, so it has a slightly different look, and it is also the highest hill in Paris. The tour included things like Moulin Rouge, the cafe from the movie Amelie, and Sacre Couer, Paris' newest cathedral (built in the 20th century). It wasn't quite as good as the New Europe tour, but was still a nice overview. After the tour I wandered a bit and had a crepe for lunch. :D
Of course I eventually went to check out the more famous sites more closely. I went to the Arc de Triomphe--fun fact, the "Star of Charles de Gaulle" around the arc is considered the most dangerous roundabout in the world and insurance will not cover accidents there: 12 lanes, unmarked, yeah--and also saw Paris' Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (for WWI) and the eternal flame that goes with it. Then, of course, the Eiffel Tower. On Sunday I went to Notre Dame (under the assumption that they wouldn't let tourists in unless services were over) and awkwardly discovered that Notre Dame does, in fact, let huge lines of tourists in DURING the services, and simply has the area where people sit roped off. Yeah. I felt kind of like a jerk for disturbing their service (haha, as if I was any more than the hundreds of other people around me), but tried to be as quiet and discrete as possible. On the other hand, it was nice to have the organ music playing while touring the church! But I was kind of shocked and disappointed that the church would allow that. It was, however, quite lovely.
I also visited Versailles, which is actually about a 20-minute train ride outside of the city. It was pretty much the only thing I paid to get into in Paris (not bad, eh?). While it was pretty, I have to say I was a little disappointed. I thought we would see more of the palace than it felt like we did, and the gardens were closed because there was some sort of show there that you had to buy an extra ticket for (though they are normally included in the basic ticket, grrr). Mostly, though, I think it was the fact that being crammed in crowds of tourists (literally, there were times we were all pretty shoulder-to-shoulder) kind of put a damper on the ambiance and grandeur of Versailles. Something about fighting one's way past a dozen other tourists to get a decent picture of a bedchamber just isn't quite as magical as one might imagine. ;)
Speaking of magical, though... The Eiffel Tower is, especially at night. I'm not going to lie, I pretty much fell in love with the Eiffel Tower. Gorgeous. Mesmerizing. I made a point of going to see it at night as well, and I am SOOOOO glad I did. Not only is it lit up at night (which is beautiful in its own right), but the first 10 minutes of every hour it sparkles! Even without that, though, I just sat in the grass staring at it for a very long time, utterly caught up in its spell, and practically had to tear myself away so I could go back to the hostel and sleep. It is that incredible.
In fact, pretty a city as Paris is, it is even more lovely at night. I wish I had learned this earlier, but it's called the City of Lights for a reason. When I go back to Paris someday, I'm pretty sure I will do half of my sightseeing at night! At least!

In conclusion:
Paris totally deserves its reputation. I think there was a point where I was skeptical, but it really is every bit as magical and beautiful and romantic as they say. Good greif, I was there by myself and it was STILL palpably romantic! How on earth does that work?!?? Anyway, Paris pretty much is all it's cracked up to be. Paris, je t'aime!! <3

Last-Minute Post #1 - Dresden

Hi there, everyone!

I know it's been a while since I posted (oops!), so I thought I'd try to skim over everything before I head on back over the Atlantic. :)

A few weeks ago (weekend of July 4th), I went to Dresden. This was another of those "Blind Booking" trips from germanwings. It was certainly an interesting city. On the one hand, it's an old European city famed as the "Florence of the Elbe". On the other hand, it was bombed to pieces in WWII. The city has now rebuilt some of its former splendor, and the result is a very, very odd mix of old and new. In most cities I've been to, the Altstadt (old town) is generally kept looking as much like it used to as possible (here in Tubingen it really is almost all original!). But as a result of the destruction and the way it was rebuilt, you can wander around the old part of Dresden and find a super-modern glass building right next to, say, the Marktplatz (which is generally one of the main squares). Oh, speaking of main, Dresden was also unique in that the Rathaus (town hall) was not the center of the old town, but rather I actually had to go out of my way to find it. So in that aspect it breaks the rule of thumb when sightseeing in a German city (that is, 3 things that you can count on being important to see are the Rathaus, a river, and a church). But continuing on with the strangeness. I have also walked into a church that, on the outside, looks old and beautiful, only to find that the inside is completely modern, except for the remains of the old alter displayed in its usual place. Another of the churches was left unfinished on the inside on purpose (I suppose they got tired of redoing it after about 5 times?), which also resulted in a relatively modern look. Then there's the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), which was rebuilt from the ground up and supposedly looks exactly like it once did. It was finished in 1992 and is now one of Dresden's main tourist attractions.
Ah, here's a funny surreal experience: First, I should explain that street musicians are a relatively common thing. And I rather like them. They tend to enhance the mood of whatever area they're playing in. For example, there might be a guy playing some classics on an accordian in the Altstadt, or someone playing some laid-back jazz on a tenor on a modern shopping street, or (a specific example from Dresden) a guy playing fanfares and similar music on trumpet in the courtyard of a palace. It's really nice. So: One day as I was walking around the Altstadt, I look over and there's a high school band setting up one some steps leading up to a garden/cafe area. Okay, no biggie, kind of like when we went to DC, right? Well, this is what I thought until they started playing. It took me about 10 seconds to realize that what they were playing was "Gonna Fly Now", aka the theme from Rocky. I was completely bewildered. (P.S. when I happened by again later they were still in the same genre) They were playing pep-band music in the Dresden Altstadt. With a cobblestone square and an old Catholic church that used to serve the palace stretched out in front of them. It was the grandest clash between music and the surroundings I had heard to that point. On a similar note (that of street performers) there was a very dedicated pianist who hauled a BABY GRAND PIANO out to a cobblestone square in the Altstadt to play for a few hours.

So, I mentioned that I was in Dresden on the 4th of July. Now, being in Europe on the 4th was a bit of a dilemma, and traveling only made it more of one. Of course I want to celebrate, but there are several obstaces: 1) One of my specific goals in travel is to avoid being the "obnoxious American tourist", 2) my access to fireworks is extremely limited (read: non-existent), and 3) I am alone in Germany. So I settled for the best thing I could come up with: I wore all red, white, and blue (except for my brown flip-flops) that day, and I had lunch a Burger King--a cheeseburger, fries, and a Coke. So there ya go. That was my 4th of July celebration.

Now, I could go one about the sites I saw in Dresden, but really, you're probably going to see pictures soon enough anyway. Besides, it was one of my less exciting trips in terms of sightseeing. There were several churches, a palace, a crazy art passage, a milk store (yes, I am serious: it is called "The Prettiest Milk Store in the World"), and a very large garden with a mini-palace. It was a nice trip, but really I was still exhausted from traveling the 3(?) previous weekends. 2 1/2 days back at the dorm, which include going to class and doing homework, are really not enough time to recharge, I have discovered. ;) Anyway, don't worry, I did get around and see stuff. But I was thankful that there didn't seem to be too much to see, and I ended up relaxing at the hostel for a couple hours most evenings. Overall, I guess I just didn't quite get the "feel" of Dresden like I have for other cities. It happens, I suppose, and that's why people have favorite cities.

My hostel, though, was FANTASTIC. It was called the "Kangaroo Stop", and, yes, it was Australian-themed. But it was really cool. It was very spacious and seemed almost new. I was in a 6-person dorm and everyone seemed really good about being quiet and having the lights out when people were trying to sleep. The lounge and kitchen were both quite large, and there were HAMMOCKS in the lounge. Okay, so the couches were more comfortable, but it's still pretty awesome. Also, there was a tree, or rather, a giant floor-to-ceiling log making it look like a tree was growing through the roof. Lol. The bathrooms were also large and new, with separate sink, toilet, and shower areas, but here's where the one negative mark came in. There were no curtains on the shower stalls. There was one with a door, and the other two were open, but even in the one with a door there was nowhere to put your stuff inside it without it getting wet. So they were essentially community showers. Awkward. (I handled this by wearing a swimsuit into the one with a door before getting ready to shower, because I'm uptight, lol) Anyways. Oh, did I mention that this hostel only cost me 9 euros a night?!??

So yeah, that was Dresden.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Barcelona

Well, I spent this past weekend in Barcelona, leaving on Friday morning and not getting back until Tuesday afternoon. I also had no checked baggage, yay! My carry-on was quite heavy, though, haha, consisting of my duffel bag crammed full of everything I needed plus my laptop.
Anyway, from the moment I got there to the moment I left it was VERY warm and sunny, just as you would expect from a beach metropolis like Barcelona. Something interesting, though, was the prevalence of Catalan. I knew that the regional language (Catalan, looks like something between Spanish and French) was used alongside Spanish, but what I didn't realize until I got there is that it is often used IN PLACE of Spanish. Of course, in the airport they had signs in Catalan, Spanish, and English, but around the city there were a number of times (most notably menus in restaurants) that even Spanish did not surface at all. It was very interesting to go to Spain as a Spanish major and not be able to understand the language being used half the time! (Granted, sometimes there was enough resemblance to Spanish for me to understand, but not always!)
Along the same lines of language observations, it was very interesting how apparent it became to me in Spain that I am much more comfortable with German, especially after living in Germany. Oddly enough, even though I of course KNEW I was in Spain, whenever I heard someone speaking a non-English language, my ears automatically listened for German first--the result being that sometimes I don't understand the first sentence said until I orient myself into Spanish mode, lol. Also, whenever I would pass a group of tourists speaking German I felt almost the same relaxing, comforting, at-home feeling as when I heard English--the mental sigh of "ah...something familiar in this foreign country..." Weird, huh?
Third linguistic observation: It is annoying how many people use English in tourist cities!!! And I'm not talking about the tourists. I am talking about the fact that I would walk into a shop and the salespeople would automatically use English with me! I personally found it frustrating, as a Spanish student looking to practice my Spanish, that they immediately presumed that I didn't have adequate Spanish skills. Furthermore, I could just as easily be German or Hungarian for all they know by looking at me; why jump to English? Honestly, I think it was primarily frustrating to me because I try very hard to be an inconspicuous and considerate tourist--I keep my camera put away when not using it, use the native language whenever I am able, and just generally try not to be obnoxious or get in the way--and this sort of assumption only caters to exactly the American stereotypes that I would like to debunk.
Okay, rant is over.

Finding my hostel was a bit of an adventure: in the directions they failed to mention that the hostel was located on the third floor of a building marked only by the large double-doors between the two halves of the Irish Pub, and that you need to buzz the office for them to let you in. But after getting that figured out all was well. And by well, I mean that the hostel was not all that I had hoped for, but was acceptable. The personal space around my bed was limited, especially as I was located on the bottom bunk in an odd nook of the room (nice in the semi-secluded nature, especially if I hung my towel like a curtain; not-so-nice in that I couldn't sit up and the path was often littered with other people's luggage). The security locker provided was big enough for my laptop (which was all that was REALLY valuable that wasn't carried with me all the time), which left my duffel bag under the bed (actually relatively safe considering said nook of the room meant that it was completely hidden under there). The only mirror available for us to use was the ONE above the sink in the bathroom (shared by at least 15 girls), and all towel/clothing hooks were located outside the shower stall (which made for some interesting arm-snaking around the shower-stall door in order to avoid being exposed while putting my towel out). As previously stated, it was on the third floor, which meant stairs (marble ones, but more about that later). Oh, and in typical European fashion there was no air-conditioning, only open windows. But aside from all this, it was quiet, the beds were reasonably comfortable, there was a refrigerator, and there was internet access, so it was acceptable--just not everything that my Hamburg hostel spoiled me with. ;)

On the first day, since I got there at about 1, I still had plenty of time for tourist-ing, so I generally walked around and explored, armed with my map. I did everything walking on this day. I saw the Placa de Catalunya (Placa = Plaza/Square), which for my purposes was the center of the city, saw the gothic Catedral (Cathedral), and went to the Arc de Triomf (surprisingly impressive).


I think this is the picture I have that comes closest to capturing the impressiveness of the Arc de Triomf. It is just massive, and the red brick is striking. Not to mention the long palm-lined avenue behind it...




Later that evening I went to the beach, but it was a little to cool for swimming (the water is actually quite cold! Nice on a hot day), so I just waded a little and watched the waves (and by waves I mean the little swells that made the water lap up onto the beach. With the various port fixtures and waterbreaks, these waves were nothing compared to the ones in Brazil, which could take you out. But this was nice in another way, in that you didn't have to always keep on your toes for fear of being mauled by a wave!)

Over the next couple days I saw La Sagrada Familia (Barcelona's most famous cathedral, most-visited attraction, and the as-of-yet incomplete work of the famous architect Gaudi). I didn't go in because the line was about an hour long and it was 11 euros just for admission (!), but I think seeing it from the outside was enough.












I also walked along the streets and saw various impressive buildings (some important, some not), including two more famous Gaudi buildings (if you haven't caught on, he's one of Barcelona's major claims to fame).
Some of Gaudi's most famous work is in Parc Guell, a park (originally built as a housing development!) up on a mountain. Not only is there some neat architecture and sculpture there (and Gaudi's own house), but when you get up to the higher points there are some fantastic views of the city. I would definately recommend going here if anyone ever goes to Barcelona. Here is Gaudi's Drac sculpture, one of the more recognizable features of the park.










Of course, I also went to the beach (twice). The first time (not counting my wading) I went to Barceloneta, which is kind of the main beach in the city. It was nice (of course, it's the beach!), but it was a little shocking that tops seem to be rather optional at the beaches in Barcelona! I mean, after the initial surprise it can be more-or-less ignored, but still... The sea floor was a bit rocky, and there was a rather crowded and touristy vibe, but it was nice to go swimming (in the Mediterranean!) and such.
The next time I went to Nova Icara, which I liked MUCH better. The topless ratio was slightly higher, but, like I said, that can be ignored (besides, that made it like 1 in 8, still rather outnumbered by those of us who choose to cover up). The sand was cleaner and finer, and the sea floor was not rocky at all. The water was a little clearer, and the overall vibe was quieter and less touristy. Also, the swells were so small that it almost felt like being in a giant swimming pool, haha! Anyway, that beach day was quite nice and rather relaxing. I think I actually got burned a little from being out in the sun so much!

While I enjoyed the trip very much, I definately got the feel that Barcelona is the type of city that is better enjoyed with others. I don't know what it is, maybe it's the playful beach/party vibe, maybe it's the weather, but I almost felt like I was missing some part of the city's soul by being there alone. Don't get me wrong, I had fun, but I just think it is worthwhile to note that I had that feeling, unlike when I was in Hamburg. I mean, it could be that I am getting more anxious to come home as it draws closer, but I actually do think that it is something about the city itself. Maybe there's some correlation between that and the stereotype that the Spanish are more open and affectionate than the Germans, and generally more people-persons.

I think I am learning that in these posts it is more important to note my reactions to places and situations than it is to list where I've been and load tons of pictures. Pictures can show me where I went and (for the most part) in what order, and I can show people pictures when I get back. It's the reactions that need to be noted before they fade. I will try to continue on that note, in the little time that I have left.

It's rather exhausting to think that after only 2 1/2 days back in Tubingen, I am heading off tomorrow afternoon for a weekend in Dresden, Germany! Whew! I think I will definately be ready for a break the weekend after!